Gyalpo Kala Wangpo and Khandro Drowa Zangmo.
The History of Yue Pemachen in Chaling Tashigang, according to Khandro Drowa Zangmo's Namthar (recorded history).
Location & historical significance of village.
The epic of Khandro Drowa Zangmo has become familiar and popular among many Bhutanese. It was taught as a part of Dzongkha curriculum in higher secondary school till recent years. A historical film was produced by Pema Tazey and the name of the village appears in the film and even in some of the folk songs. Aaccording to the epic & film, at the end Lhasey Kuentu Legpa rules as a King of Yue Pemachen.
Today, Yue Pemachen is believed to be Chaling village, in Shongphu gewog under Trashigang Dzongkhag.
To authenticate the place, there are some historical monuments in the form of Chorten, ruines of the Palace and Chorten Napo in Dam Ngyonjong, on the way to Merak, where Duem Hachang was subdued. The village is located about 27 Km North of Trashigang, above Rangjung on the traditional route to Merak. It is a beautiful village located on the mountain slope with moderate climate and majorty of the people are farmers. The present inhabitants of Chaling are said to have been migrated from Mon Tawang, the state of Arunachal Pradesh in India a few centuries ago. They belong to Monpa/Dhagpa community and they have unique culture, tradition, language, & rich history. Even these days, the village is well remembered as the Densa of Lhasey Kuentu Legpa in the 7th century, Densa of Ama Jomo & Lam Jerrapa 13th century and Densa of Gyalsey Ganapati(1685-1710) reincarnation of Gyalsey Jampel Dorji in 17th century.
Summary of Namthar
Gyalpo Kala Wangpo was a powerful king of Yue Mendregang (Tawang), which is located in Arunachal Pradesh. He got married to Duem Hachang, but in the absence of Duem, he married Khandro Drowa Zangmo, a daughter of Damze Gyen Gye(old man & woman) who were meditating in an isolated deep forest. When the king was searching for his lost hunting dog Kemo Chagthra Abche, he met Khandro Drowa Zangmo in her hermitage. From their marriage the Princess Lhachi Kuenzang & Prince Lhasey Kuentu Legpa were born. They lived happily in the Palace of Zimgchung Drolmai Lhakhang. With the passage of time, Duen Hachang(heretic demoness) knew about it. She swore in the name of protective deity that she would die if she was not able to eat Khandro Drowa Zangmo and two children. Realizing it as Dugi Barche (obstacles) to her prophecy given by Khandoma during her birth, she flew to Nub Khandoling(Southern Paradise of Khandroma) leaving behind the prince & princess.
Duem Hachang was extremely frustrated against king's unfaithful act and he was immediately imprisoned. She started preparing plans to kill the prince and the princess. She pretended to be seriously ill and said her illness could be cured only by killing the two children and consuming their hearts. So, Duem ordered two Shenpa brothers(butchers) to kill the children. When they failed to kill them, she then gave instruction two Napa brothers (fishermen). Finally she gave a strict instruction to two Dopa brothers (stone cutters), who spared the princess and threw the prince from Shingri Chenpo (high cliff with a lake at bottom). This cliff today is believed to be located below Mukto village in Tawang, a very high cliff & Drangme Chhu flowing at bottom.
When Lhasey Kuentu Legpa was thrown from the cliff, his mother Khandro Drowa Zangmo transformed herself into an eagle and later into a fish and saved him from drowning into a lake. She left him on the shore of the lake. After regaining consciousness, he resumed his journey in the forest. He was tired and hungry and was looking for food. A monkey helped him by plucking and throwing some fruits from trees to him. After traveling a long journey, he finally reached Yue Pemachen and took rest under a large cypress tree. In the absence of a ruler, the people of Yue Pemachen found him and enthroned him as their king. He ruled the country based on buddhist laws.
When Duem Hachang came to know about survival of the prince, she was infuriated and led the army of Mendregang against Yue Pemachen. The two forces clashed at Dam Ngyonjong, which is almost six hour walk from Chaling. In the battle, Kuentu Legpa shot Duem Hachang on her chest with an arrow succumbing her to death. As a mark of victory of good over evil, a Chorten Nagpo(Black Chorten) was built after burying death body of Duem Hachang. Henceforth, this place was known as Dam Ngyonjong(subdued). After the death of Duem Hachang, Yab Kala Wangpo, Lhachi kuenzang and Lhasey Kuntu Legpa reunited and lived happily in the palace of Pemachen. There was unprecedented peace and prosperity in the country under the benevolent rule of Kuentu Legpa.
Remains of Architectures & Monuments
The Chorten, which is believed to have existed during the time of Lhasey Kuentu Legpa can still be seen today and the ruins of structures of palace are deeply buried in the ground. The cypress tree that is mentioned in epic, where Lhasey Kuentu Zangpo took rest. According to elder people from village, they said that roots were found while ploughing the field during their grandparents time. Most part of ruined structure were demolished in recent past and the stones were taken from ruines for constructing houses. Today one can see cluster of houses built mostly from ruins. The Chorten is a very ancient monument in the village. The people of village seek the child protection from Chorten and the child is named Chorten(eg. Chorten Norbu & Chorten Dema). On the way to Merak, there is place call Dam Ngyonjong. The Chorten Nagpo that was constructed after subduing Duem Hachang can still be seen today. But off recently all those chortens were vandalized.
Though the place has very rich historical background, nobody has carried out indept research or archeological studies. Except Chorten, the whole area were the ruined structures stand are buried under ground. The site of ruine is the private land used for cultivation by the present people. There is need to make greater effort to preserve historical sites and further explore for future research.
Photo courtesy to Facebook page Chaling Union Group and Mushroom man from Chaling (Kota) and Karma Gyeltshen.
Sources: Khandro Drowa Zangm's Namthar
-Legand of Yue Pemachen www.bbs.bt
-Gyalsey Ganapati's Densa at Pema Chen by Sir Sonam Chophel 🙏.
Source: Dorji Wangchuk and Peaceful Bhutan - Pema Tshering.
Acknowledgement to Mr. Guru Wangdi for editing article.
Happy readings 🙏.
