Living by the bow and arrow in Bhutan

Living by the bow and arrow in Bhutan


Take aim
Take aim

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Every weekend Bhutanese Pema Dorji channels his inner Robin Hood and aims for the bull's-eye, but not without generous sips of the local brew and a leg-kicking dance and song routine.

A way of life
A way of life

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The likes of Dorji make up the vibrant archery scene in the small Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan where the traditional sport is a way of life for its 800,000 people.

Competitions are held across the country on various auspicious days each month before culminating in national championships attended by hundreds of raucous fans.

"Alcohol and archery go hand in hand," said Tashi Dorji, the research and development officer with the Bhutan Indigenous Games and Sports Association (BIGSA).

"We drink to gain confidence. We have a belief that if we drink we can hit the target better," the 25-year-old said, barely hiding a sheepish grin.

The game
The game

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The game they play pits two teams of 11 players each who try to hit the maximum number of bull's-eyes on a fixed target a full 140 metres (yards) away.

A war cry rings out each time the target is hit. Players in traditional "gho" dresses dance and sing folk numbers -- different ones for winning and losing.

The crucial drink breaks see archers gulp down locally brewed whisky before locking horns again on the field where colourful flags flutter in the breeze.

The beloved national sport is steeped in legends about how bows and arrows were used to hunt prey and destroy demons and evil spirits.

Stories also abound about how the Bhutanese fought the rifle-armed soldiers of the British army in the 19th century using arrows dipped in poison.

Early beginnings
Early beginnings

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Archery was popularised by the first king of Bhutan Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuk (1862-1926) and it continued to flourish under royal patronage through the years.

But it suffered a decline after the reclusive nation decided to pursue economic development and open its doors to modernisation, eventually allowing in television in 1999.

"TV made modern sports available, sports like football and volleyball which are cheaper to play. Suddenly there was competition for our traditional sports," said Kinzang Dorji, president of the BIGSA.

"Children had a wider choice unlike the generations before them," he said.

To find a footing
To find a footing

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In addition, the advent of more advanced compound and recurve archery has meant Bhutanese archers used to traditional equipment made of bamboo reeds have struggled to find their feet in international competitions.

Bhutan has sent archers to every Olympics since 1984 but a medal has eluded the nation

Where is the competitive streak
Where is the competitive streak

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Some say the Bhutanese, who will vote in only the country's third elections later this month, lack the fiercely competitive streak needed to do well in the sport.

The likes of Ygyen Dorji beg to differ though.

"The rivalry is quite intense. Opponents often plant women in the stands to distract the rivals," said Ygyen Dorji, a mental health counsellor and archery enthusiast.

"The ladies mimic you, try to pull you down and one has to concentrate hard as pride and honour are at stake."

 Not ambitious enough
Not ambitious enough

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Fellow participant Karma Tshering said Bhutanese archers were not aspiring to global acclaim.

"Anybody can shoot with the sophisticated modern bows with the help of release aids and all," said Tshering.

"It's the traditional archery which is more challenging, you have to focus on both your body and mind," he said, adjusting the sashes on his waist which he won for scoring maximum points during a game at Thimpu's national sports stadium.

Traditional archery
Traditional archery

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The Bhutan Archery Federation recently started a programme to train and encourage children to take up the sport.

In a shot in the arm for traditional archery, two Bhutanese athletes won gold medals at the historical World Archery championship held in August in Hungary.

"It was a great experience to compete with some 300 archers from all over the world," said gold-medallist Damcho Wangdi.

"It showed traditional archery can be revived as many countries in Europe and Asia have some history of playing with bows and arrows.

"And with our rich archery history and culture Bhutan can lead the way."

How the 'world's toughest one-day bike race' could put Bhutan ahead

How the 'world's toughest one-day bike race' could put Bhutan ahead



Bhutan mountain rangeImage copyrightMELYN MCKAY
Image captionBhutan's culture goes far beyond its mountains and valleys

The reclusive kingdom of Bhutan has for years granted only limited access to tourists. But the country is now slowly attracting more visitors - and one way it is doing so is through extreme sports, as filmmaker Alex Bescoby recounts.
It was 2am on a chilly September morning in Bhutan, and a gruelling 268km (166 miles) slog lay ahead.
Between me and the finish line in the capital, Thimphu, lay four mountain-passes each more than 10,000ft high (3,050m) and a feat of endurance that has taken world-class athletes more than 11 hours to complete.
As the organisers of the Tour of the Dragon (TOD) point out, real dangers awaited.
The TOD has been billed as the "toughest one-day bike race in the world". Between the rough undulating terrain and the potential to run into wild tigers, leopards and wild boar, it wasn't hard to see why.
Only 47 others took part and most were, unlike myself, perfect cycling specimens from Bhutan and abroad.

'It's my dream'

Beside me at the start-line was Wangchuk Namgay, the youngest rider at just 17.
"It's my dream to complete this race," he confided.


Wangchuk NamgayImage copyrightALEX BESCOBY
Image caption17-year old Wangchuk Namgay was the youngest rider this year

He had never ridden anywhere near this distance before, but his nerves were dampened by the months of training he had put in, and the potential to win the first prize of £1,500 ($1,950).
On my other side was a more seasoned Bhutanese rider, 46-year-old Rinzin Norbu, who was undertaking his eighth race.
"Has anyone ever died doing this?" I asked him, increasingly nervous.


Rinzin NorbuImage copyrightALEX BESCOBY
Image captionIt was Rinzin's eighth race, and he was showing no signs of stopping yet

"No, not yet", he grinned. "Our prime minister broke his jaw. It didn't stop him finishing."
It's a good insight into the people that thrive in this nation of just 750,000, tucked between India and China, and nicknamed The Land of the Thunder Dragon.
Bhutan's Prince Jigyel Ugyen Wangchuck a passionate cyclist, founded the TOD in 2010 as a challenge between friends. But such is the veneration for the royal family in Bhutan, the race has become a national event.
The 34-year-old prince, dressed ready to race, stopped to greet each rider personally. Heads were bowed and backs straightened.
"Pace yourself, and stay safe," he told me in a reassuring tone.
Minutes later a rumbling prayer from saffron-robed monks built to a crescendo, and the starting gun set off a cloud of confetti.


Race supportersImage copyrightMELYN MCKAY
Image captionChildren line up to support bike races

Before sunrise, darkness was the biggest danger.
The cheap torch I'd strapped to my handlebars failed to spot cows emerging like bovine icebergs in the pre-dawn fog. They refused to move - possibly due to a lack of fear stemming from the ban on all animal-killing in Bhutan, or perhaps due to the copious marijuana growing wild around us.
When the sun finally rose five hours later, it brought its own problems. The temperature rocketed, and my skin turned bright-red in the thin mountain air.


Wandering cows in BhutanImage copyrightGETTY IMAGES
Image captionThese might not be the obstacles you'd expect to find during a bike ride
Alex Bescoby in actionImage copyrightMELYN MCKAY
Image captionThe author in action

The five-hour uphill slog that followed deserved its own circle in hell. Bhutan only paved its first road in 1962, and large sections of the route remained a work-in-progress.
As I inched forward in the lowest gear through mile-after-mile of treacle-like mud, the air turned blue with my increasingly inventive swearing.
I found myself dead last, making painfully slow progress. The driver of the sweeper bus behind me alleviated his boredom by live-streaming my efforts across social media via his smartphone.

Culture vs cash

Mobile phones only arrived in Bhutan in 2003 - just four years after the television - but the country is now reaching 100% penetration rates.


A Bhutanese Buddhist monk uses his mobile phone to take a photographImage copyrightGETTY IMAGES
Image captionAn increasing number of people in Bhutan have access to a mobile phone

Its thinly spread population once relied on messengers travelling weeks on foot through precarious mountain passes.
But now social media is connecting the Bhutanese like never before, as well as broadcasting my suffering across the country in seconds.
And it's not just smartphones that have taken off in Bhutan. The country's tourism industry is also on the rise.
Bhutan has traditionally restricted tourism to the wealthy few, using steep daily visa-fees to safeguard its pristine environment and proudly independent culture.
But a partnership agreement with India has seen large numbers of tourists visiting Bhutan visa-free in the last few years.
Many bring their own cars and supplies, and stay only briefly in the growing number of high-volume, low-budget hotels popping up across the country.
While some welcome the extra revenue and interest in Bhutan's unique history and culture, it's an issue causing rare disagreement in a country famous for focusing on "Gross National Happiness".
Finding the right balance will likely be top of the agenda for the new government formed after Bhutan goes to the polls for only the third time in history in October.


The local men practise their archery skills, taken in Bhutan, April 2016Image copyrightGETTY IMAGES
Image captionArchery is the country's national sport

So perhaps cycling could be the country's way of striking that balance - attracting international athletes while showcasing the best of its culture and environment.
Bhutan is traditionally known for its obsession with archery, its national sport.
But the Bhutan Olympic Committee (BOC) has been increasingly keen to see Bhutan's young athletes consider cycling as an option.
Its secretary-general, Sonam Karma Tshering, believes the presence of world-famous cyclists taking part in the TOD could inspire a future Bhutanese world-champion. He feels that Bhutan's unforgiving terrain is the perfect place for elite cycling to take hold.
The royal family's passion for cycling has also helped.
Bhutan's beloved former king, now in happy retirement having abdicated in favour of his son, can be seen cycling dressed in his traditional gho most days in the hills around Thimphu.


This photo taken on August 25, 2018, shows a general view of Bhutan's capital ThimphuImage copyrightGETTY IMAGES
Image captionTourists are increasingly flocking to the capital of Thimphu

Back in the unforgiving mountains, my race towards the finish line continued.
After more than 14 soul-destroying and awe-inspiring hours, I finally surrendered at the 200km mark - a distance surprising both me and my growing online following.
"Ah, the last man standing", quipped Mr Tshering as I limped into his office at the BOC a few days later to discuss his vision for the race.
"It could be the Tour de France of Bhutan!" he declared, only half-joking.
While the race was over for me, the BOC has high hopes of attracting more riders than ever for next year's 10th TOD. But there is a limit, Mr Tshering insisted.
"We want a world class race without selling our soul."

Bhutan: A tourist’s paradise

Bhutan: A tourist’s paradise

Bhutan: A tourist’s paradise
Known for its scenic beauty, cultural diversity and tradition, the tiny mountain kingdom of Bhutan is a tourist destination par excellence. Above all, it offers a template for sustainable living
Bhutan, also known as Druk-Yul (meaning the land of the thunder dragon), the closest neighbour and a time-tested friend of India, was in news a few months ago due to the Doklam stand-off between India and China. However, the Indian people’s interests in this beautiful country lies is much more than this stand-off as the country witnesses a large bunch of tourists who flock Bhutan in record numbers every year. In return, they enrich its economy as tourism is the second largest source of revenue after export of hydroelectricity. 
Bhutan was the first country in the world to coin the word ‘Gross Domestic Happiness’ to signify its development index. It attained international acclaim for this unique venture. It is also officially the only carbon negative country in the world and it emerged as a world leader in evolving revolutionary climate change policies.
This writer has always been fascinated with the people of Bhutan. After two successful visits, he latched on an opportunity to visit the beautiful country again during the month of October to enjoy its pristine beauty and culture once again. The purpose of this article is to discuss what makes Bhutan a unique nation in the world where the people love their King much more than anything else in their life and the King considers himself as a true servant of the people.
The writer observed several facets of Bhutanese life closely and would like to put forth certain things that the Indian Government as well as the citizens can emulate from this tiny little nation of eight lakh people living in 38,000 sq mt area.
The name Bhutan is derived from the ancient Indian term ‘Bhotania’ which means the end of the land of the Bhots (Bhots meaning Tibet). Bhutan is located on the southern slopes of the eastern Himalayas, landlocked between the Tibet Autonomous Region to the north and the Indian States of Sikkim, West Bengal, Assam, and Arunachal Pradesh to the west and south. Bhutanese people primarily consist of the Ngalops and Sharchops, called the western Bhutanese and eastern Bhutanese, respectively.
Bhutan has a wide diversity of ethnic groups, starting with a number of small tribal groups (related to similar tribes in India and Sikkim), whose ancestry dates back to almost three thousand years. People also migrated from Tibet, Nepal and Mongolia. Bhutanese are followers of the Mahayana branch of Buddhism with huge influence of Tibetan and ancient Indian traditions. 
Dzongkha, meaning the language of the fort, is the national language of Bhutan. The country was inhabited 4,000 years ago, there are  archeological evidence indicating settlements in Bhutan dating back to 2000-1500 BC. Bonism (involving worship of nature spirits and practice of sacrifice), a pre-Buddhist religion of Tibet, was the main religion in Bhutan before the arrival of Buddhism. 
Seventy-two per cent of its area is under forest cover. It has a rich variety of plants and animals with a very rare Takin, a species of goat-antelope, the national animal of Bhutan, surviving with less than 20 specimen, mostly in the national park at Thimpu. Paro is the sole airport situated in a picturesque valley and serviced by the Druck Airways, a national carrier and Bhutan Airlines with flights to Delhi, Kolkata and Bangkok. The capital city of Thimpu is a picture perfect hill station at an altitude of 2,334 meters.
The country is a Constitutional  Monarchy with a Parliament. Over the years, the previous Monarch, who abdicated at quite a young age to hand over the reign to his son the present King Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, had promoted democracy in the country so much so that that the present King empowered the Parliament to impeach the King!  This is a marvelous commitment from an all-powerful Monarch for the people’s wishes and a reflection of ushering the nation to true democratic life.
This should serve as a lesson to all powerful leaders of the world, including India. This has come from the King not as a largesse but due to the fact that the Bhutanese people have deep respect for their culture, values and traditions which evolve themselves into a proud vivacious nation. It gives more importance to human values than simply defining the economic growth as an indicator of development.
The Bhutanese Parliament never wastes time in unruly scenes but devotes itself in fruitful discussions. This is in sharp contrast to what is witnessed in India. And because of this, they measure development on the basis of Gross National Happiness rather than on Gross National Products and this is why they have become world famous in coining this term. 
Precisely, this is also the reason why Bhutan is not unnecessarily promoting industrial growth and is emphasising more on social and environmental development. Despite scarcity of resources, all citizens are entitled for free education and healthcare. The needy and the poor are provided necessary assistance for livelihoods. Still, a least developed country is fast marching ahead and leads South Asia in ease of doing business, peace and rated as least corrupt nation.
The commercial capital is Phuentsholing, which is located in south near the Indian border. The economy is based on agriculture, animal husbandry and forestry, and is a source of livelihood for 90 per cent of the population. The economy of Bhutan is aligned with that of India through strong trade and monetary links. Major industries include electricity, cement, calcium carbide, wood products, processed fruits, alcoholic beverages, among others. The main source of income is hydroelectric power and tourism industry.
From the point of view of tourism, Thimpu, Punakha and Paro are very important places. Punakha, nestled between the male and female rivers, was the capital of Bhutan till 1958 when it was shifted to Thimpu. The Punakha fort architecture is inspired by lord Viswakarma as the fort has an abode for the mechanical engineer God. 
One of the most beautiful site is the 160 feet Buddha statue in Thimpu which gives an impression as if Buddha is descending from the sky and resting on the verdant forest. It can be rated as one of the most beautiful sites on Earth. Then there are the Bhutanese forts in Thimpu, Punakha and Paro, which throw light as to how religion and governance developed in Bhutan.
Paro has the most admired Tiger nest monastery which also tests the human endurance when one has to climb more than 800 steps after tracking through six kilometers uphill. On reaching the top, it gives a breathtaking view of the Bhutanese landscape.
Another important event for the tourists is the ‘Hot stone Bath’ where stones are heated red and then water is poured on them and channeled to the Bath tub which gives a refreshing bath. Bhutan is a neat and clean country and developing fast as this writer found expansion of construction activities all over in Thimpu, compared to 2011.
However, the Government in Bhutan should be cautious about expansion of its building construction activities as more and more high rise concrete buildings are coming up and changing the culture and landscape. Second, the Government must have a regulatory law to control use and diversion of forestland for developmental purpose as the scenic beauty of Bhutan is due to pristine forests and cannot be ignored. The area near the Buddha statue in Thimpu needs to be further consolidated and stabilised with vegetation. In a nutshell, Bhutan is a tourist paradise and should remain so.