Bhutan Entry Rules

Bhutan’s entry rules are about to change a bit

You will need a passport or Voter ID; minors may need a birth certificate

If you’re planning a drive to Bhutan next year, make sure you double-check the entry requirements. The list of documents that may be accepted as identity proof has been whittled down to just two, because local authorities were having a tough time verifying the authenticity of these documents.

From 1 January 2019, anyone crossing the border over land will need either a Voter’s ID or a valid passport. Other documents such as a driver’s licence, Aadhaar card or ration card, will not be accepted, reports The telegraph. And, tin case of minors, you may have to carry the birth certificate (in English), though it isn’t clear yet if this is over and above the passport.

Earlier, those driving into Bhutan could carry other government-issued documents, and procure an “identification slip” at the Phuentsholing. Now, in place of the identification slip, visitors will get an entry permit. Do note that the permit allows tourists to visit only Paro and Thimphu. If you wish to explore the rest of the country, you need a special area permit, issued on weekdays at the immigration office in Thimphu.

A New Magical Resort in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Inside The Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary, A Magical New Resort In The Himalayan Kingdom

Searching the world for the most amazing People, Places and Things

Dramatic views from the Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryBHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

Karma was on my side as my plane passed near the soaring snowy peaks of Mount Everest before making the dramatic and white-knuckle landing into tiny Paro Airport in Bhutan. Only 17 pilots are qualified to fly into this airport considering the aircraft has to tilt its wings 45 degrees to squeeze between dramatic mountain tops while coming within feet of cliffside buildings and then make a quick stop on the short runway. After all what could possibly go wrong when you are traveling with the King and Queen of Bhutan?

My travel mates, Her Majesty Jetsun Pema Wangchuck, the world’s youngest living queen, married the Himalayan kingdom’s very popular “Dragon King” at age 21. Now 28 years old, she first met His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, 38, after his father abdicated the throne ten years ago.

Royal Bhutan Airlines Drukair on arrival at Paro Airport (Getty Images)

A regal red carpet and entourage were waiting at the bottom of the stairs to greet the Royal Family as I departed, and I instantly felt at ease walking into the clean mountain air and crystal-clear blue skies despite the pomp and circumstance. The terminal appeared more like a giant temple courtyard rather than an airport and most passengers after cheering and applauding the successful landing were eager to take photos of the plane that guided them to safety. It was a fleeting moment of enjoying the life of royalty as we bid them farewell and our driver took us to our retreat for the week.

Prince William and Duchess Catherine on a recent visit with King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and Queen Jetsun Pem(SAMIR HUSSEIN / WIREIMAGE

A small kingdom of 800,000 people squeezed between India and China, Bhutan has become iconic as the crown jewel of the Himalayas. Everyday life has a much different pace here where the people are dedicated to preserving the environment while respecting the tradition and religion. It is truly one of the most stunning countries of the world covered in dramatic rocky cliffs, dotted with waterfalls amid green forests and filled with ancient customs and lore.

I had heard tales of warning from other travelers and was well prepared with high altitude medicines, hiking equipment and a medicine cabinet worth of protection, but after arriving, I found myself letting all of the fear and worry go and embraced the quiet.

Prayer flags in ParoNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

Bhutan, which opened to the outside world in 1974 is well known for keeping the country protected from an onslaught of tourists and maintaining their self-proclaimed Gross National Happiness. They are planning to lessen the current extreme restrictions which require travelers to follow a preplanned itinerary as well as having an approved guide with them at all times. The country has always limited the number of visitors and years ago established a “minimum daily tariff” to keep out the selfie stick tour bus crowds. The cost is now $250 per day in high season, as well as a $65 sustainable-development fee, which goes toward helping its citizens. You can also not travel independently through Bhutan and must go through a licensed tour operator or hotel after you obtain your $40 Tourist visa.

Student monks at the Eutok Samdrupcholing Goenpa MonasteryNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

Despite the quiet and peaceful landscape, Bhutan is preparing for an increase of international hotel chains that will eventually transform the area and attract more international tourists (almost 50% of all tourists currently visiting Bhutan are from India). With Six Senses opening their doors in the winter of 2018 and the Aman Resorts adding another property to their existing five lodges, it will not be long before other popular chains like Four Seasons and Oberoi could be added to the mix.

But it is the promise of a sacred tourism experience that attracted me to make the long trek to the Land of the Thunder Dragon. An experience that Dutch hotelier Louk Lennaerts has created with the brand new and remarkable Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary. The Sanctuary takes a different approach, encouraging guests to stay put with the goal of creating a lasting positive change. He believes wellbeing tourism makes guests happier inside and outside as well as educating them in their daily lives. After all, Bhutan is not a vacation destination but rather a spiritual and emotional journey becoming more of a pilgrimage than a typical escape.

Terrace room at the Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryBHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

Lennaerts spent the last 23 years in Vietnam creating hospitality projects including Fusion Maia Danang, and as we dined together, he explained his fascination with the country that is seemingly cut off from the rest of the world. He realized it was the perfect country to create an inspirational project where travelers can find and fully experience the essence of the location in one place.

The architectural design is also one of the breathtaking features of the Sanctuary. “After learning more about the country, it was clear that we needed and wanted to follow and respect the traditions that symbolize the character of Bhutan including the Monasteries, the Dzongs (Fortresses) with their courtyards and the mud houses,” says Louk. “There is no need for sophisticated architecture as this wouldn’t fit with the essence of this still magical country. At the same time, we wanted a location that could provide a link with an old monastery to feel connected with the major symbolic of Bhutan. We were very much blessed to find this unique location in a side valley of Paro where all the rooms have views of the monastery and the valley.  There are also great views from all the public spaces including the restaurant, outdoor terrace, pool, and gym. The interior is less traditional and designed to provide a certain elegance.”

The outdoor terrace at Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryBHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

One of the highlights of the architecture is the entrance to the Sanctuary where guests go through a large red gate to a courtyard before coming to a small bridge to come to the next red gate entering the transformation room and coming to the golden door. After opening this big door, the valley opens in front of the guest eyes with a “wow” effect.

Designed to look like a traditional Bhutanese fortress (including three-foot-thick walls), all rooms offer stunning views of the valley and rock covered hillside and overlook the nearby Eutok Samdrupcholing Goenpa Monastery. The layout includes inner meditation gardens, personal spa rooms, and an open kitchen design run where you can watch food being prepared. The upper floor rooms include 515 square feet plus an 85-square foot balcony, and the ground floor rooms are 581 square feet with an outdoor garden terrace with tables and chairs.

View from the entrance gate to the main courtyard of the Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryBHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

Upon entering the Great Room there is an open space, instead of a traditional check-in counter, and you are able to select your own products for your bathroom that are all made locally. The beautiful lower level spa includes 6 treatment rooms, 2 in-house traditional Bhutanese medicine doctors, steam and sauna facilities for men and women, 2 traditional hot stone baths with individual treatment beds, yoga and meditation room, gym, 50 foot heated indoor pool, and an art/ pottery studio with an in-house teacher.

Balcony room at the Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryBHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

Being welcomed on arrival by the owner and staff truly makes you feel like you are visiting someone’s grand estate. I met with one of the property’s two traditional Bhutanese doctors on staff, Dr. Thinley Om, who served as my personal Wellbeing Guide. By holding my wrist and monitoring my body and energy imbalances using Eastern methods she helped craft a customized wellness plan during my stay at the Sanctuary. She also prescribed specialty treatments for me including Kunye (Tibetan massage), Moxibustion (traditional Chinese medicine therapy) and Numtsug (hot oil compression) which was intimidating at first but ultimately rewarding in its healing benefits.

Swimming pool at Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryBHUTAN SPIRIT SANCTUARY

Bhutan is known as the ‘Land of Medicinal Herbs’ and is considered to be a rich and abundant source of traditional medicine. The Sanctuary’s spa brings together the wild medicinal herbs and spices of Bhutan to create healing products. The doctor even made sure I had a special pill to take three times a day that she concocted to help me.

I also met with Executive Chef Jan Moeller who helped me with a customized menu since I have such severe food allergies. Head Chef Parash Chhetri also incorporates farm to table creations using local organic ingredients, with seasonal fruits and vegetables and herbs and vegetables that come from local farmers, and I have to admit the meals were among the very best I have had in a long time. I don’t eat meat, so he created delectable entrees like; Salmon with Truffle Hollandaise Sauce aside Monger Quinoa and grilled vegetables and pumpkin soup or a beetroot salad and a lime zest crusted fish with mushroom risotto. Simply amazing!

The author with guides Robin Pradhan and Dechen Dorji at Tiger’s Nest MonasteryNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

I was eager to explore the country and was assigned two personal guides from the hotel for my sunrise trek the next morning to one of my bucket list destinations, the iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery. This stunning monastery appears to cling to the side of a sheer cliff and can only be reached by a five-hour roundtrip hike up incredibly steep dirt and rocky pathways. I am by no means an athlete, and it was very difficult for me to acclimate to the high altitude as well as the hearty climb, but since it was my birthday, I was committed to making it all the way to the top of the temple. My guides Robin and Dechen were with me the entire way to ensure I was always comfortable, hydrated and hiking at my own pace.  There is the option of riding via horseback to the halfway point, but I don’t endorse that route since it is very difficult for the animals to navigate and can also be dangerous for overweight hikers.

Taking a peaceful break on the hike to Tiger’s Nest MonasteryNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

After such a remarkable hike and after seeing the Tiger’s Nest close up, you get such a sense of accomplishment that it is truly exhilarating and I eagerly hope everyone who is physically able makes sure to experience this journey all the way to the top rather than just the cafeteria halfway point where most tourists stop. Don’t rush, take your time and breathe in the fresh air while enjoying the amazing surroundings, hang your own personal prayer flag on the cliff overlooking the valley and appreciate how amazing life is. It took me seven long hours to complete my hike considering I have bad knees, but it is well worth the adventure and the accomplishment.

Dogs are a major part of the population in Bhutan including Tiger’s Nest MonasteryNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

We returned to the resort, and the entire staff surprised me when I entered singing Happy Birthday, and each staff member presented me with a balloon with a personal message attached. This is why you stay in properties like this, for the personal touch and the feeling that you are part of a true Bhutanese family (Zatsang). We enjoyed Spa treatments that were much deserved to rest our weary muscles and followed by a truly special dinner as many of the staff danced and performed for us, and even my mountain guide Dechen sang his heart out. What a memorable evening that I will cherish forever.

Our final day we were dressed in a traditional Gho, a knee-length robe provided by the hotel for our exploring. We toured the town of Paro, browsing through the shops and admiring Bhutan’s obsession with the phallus, with versions sold in every shape and size throughout the country. It all started in the 15th century when a Tibetan monk named Drukpa Kunley used imagery of the phallus to subdue demons and bless the people of Bhutan.

Experiencing archery, the national sport of Bhutan along with our Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary guides Sonam Tobgay (L) and Dechen Dorji, Sonam Rinchen (R)NICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

Then it was off to try our hand at archery, the national sport of the Kingdom. Bhutanese archers used to repel the Tibetan invaders in the past with the homemade bamboo bows and arrows. Next was a visit to the Paro Dzong, a large Buddhist monastery and fortress from 1646 overlooking the entire Valley, (all of Bhutan’s kings have been crowned here). The adjacent Ta Dzong tower houses the National Museum of Bhutan filled with historic masks and wildlife exhibits.

We wrapped up the day driving along potholed winding roads, the hills covered with wind-filled prayer flags that are visible everywhere in Bhutan to provide blessings to the deceased and their traveling spirit. We continued along the countries single lane highway, filled with stray dogs, cows, and yak herders and ended up at the Eutok Samdrupcholing Goenpa Monastery on a prominent hill overlooking our hotel, it was built in the 15th century and houses a monastic school for 65 boys from age 5 to 25.

With the student monks at Eutok Samdup Choeling MonasteryNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

My stay in Bhutan was too brief considering there is so much to explore, including the neighboring city of Thimphu and also the stunning glacial Gangtey Valley. But I am confident I will someday return to Bhutan’s breathtaking country filled with Buddhist legends, where stories of the legendary Yeti (Abominable Snowman) still exist and where the worlds spiritual leaders continue to visit to bless Bhutan and its people. It is the people of Bhutan that inspire, filled with such impressive spiritual and cultural teachings in a Shangri-La where I hope everyone can get a chance to visit to open their hearts and breathe.

Coffee on the terrace at Bhutan Spirit SanctuaryNICK STARCEVIC FOR FORBES

HOW TO GET THERE:

There are no direct flights to Paro, I traveled the pricey Druk Air, the Royal Bhutan Airlines which connects through New Delhi, Bangkok, and Singapore. My round trip fare from Delhi was almost $600 so book well in advance.

WHERE TO STAY:

The Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary is the only five-star well-being inclusive property in Asia, and it provides guests with the peace of mind of never having to reach into their pockets to pay for anything. As Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary owner Louk Lennaerts explains, “Totally new, especially for Bhutan, is that all services are free; not just all food and drinks (excl. alcohol), certain outdoor activities (archery, Bhutanese darts, hiking, picnics), and even laundry but especially all well-being activities including the consultation with the Well-Being Guides, arts and crafts, special massages, as well as meditation and yoga training. In addition, we work to find out about any special needs or requests the guests have including the opportunity to meet interesting Bhutanese people or others.”

In peak season the rates are $1,320 nightly for a Balcony Room and $1,584 for Terrace Room. Contact the hotel directly for information on how they can assist with taking care of your visitor tariff and arrangements.

How Bhutan Avoids Being Overrun by Tourist

THE HIMALAYAN KINGDOM HAS MANAGED TO AVOID THE CROWDED, TOURIST-INFESTED FATE THAT BEFELL MANY OTHER PICTURESQUE DESTINATIONS.

Belive it or not, this is a package tour. You walk down a dirt trail, past rice paddies, stupas, and colorful prayer flags, toward a charming little hillside village. Your guide is a Bhutanese local in his early thirties, who shows you the wooden homes with their hand-painted wall murals of ornate Buddhist symbols. He bumps into his friend, a homeowner—and before you know it, you’re chatting inside his living room and sipping yak butter tea. Later on, he takes you to the local Buddhist monastery, where the air is thick with incense smoke and chanted mantras. Then you go shopping—in an outdoor riverside market where nobody hustles you for money. This trip feels like a personal visit to a local friend, in a place that seems to regard you—the foreign tourist—with a refreshing kind of innocence. And it’s nothing like the pre-planned, cookie-cutter experience that’s handed out to busloads of tourists elsewhere.

With its culture and pristine scenery, there’s no question that Bhutan has everything it needs to be a world-famous tourist hotspot. Surrounded by the Himalayas, Bhutan was previously physically impassable save for a handful of mountain passes. The country maintained close ties with only its southern neighbor India, until four decades ago when it decided to welcome tourists from the rest of the world: Years later, this Himalayan kingdom has still managed to avoid the crowded, tourist-infested fate that befell many other picturesque destinations. Whereas places like Barcelona and Venice are now considering caps on visitor numbers, Bhutan wisely adopted a “High Value Low Impact” approach to sustainable tourism in the 1980s, after the nation's fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, became concerned about the effect that unregulated tourism might have on his people.

The system is built on a daily “visa” fee of US$250 during the high season (which runs March to May and September to November), and US$200 during the low season (all other months). The amount sounds alarming, but is actually a minimum spending requirement that includes meals, three-star (minimum) accommodations in city hotels or countryside resorts, land transport, and guide service for every day spent in the country. Aside from this, the policy requires that all visitors—save for citizens of India, Bangladesh, and the Maldives—pre-book their trips with a government-accredited travel agency like GeoEx (ask for Brent Olsen), Myths and Mountains, and Singapore-based Druk Asia. (There used to be a cap of 65,000 tourists per year, but it was lifted once the government was sure there was enough infrastructure to support the influx.)

By foregoing mass tourism in favor of a more select clientele, Bhutan earns valuable revenue without having to endure crowds of sightseers. “Our overall vision is to develop and promote Bhutan as an exclusive travel destination based on the values of GNH,” says Damcho Rinzin of the Bhutan Tourism Council. (Rinzin is referring to the country’s celebrated Gross National Happiness index, which guides its progress through non-materialistic Buddhist ideals such as cultural resilience, psychological well-being, and ecological harmony.) “Because of High Value Low Impact tourism, we have been able to welcome tourists in a manner that contributes to the nation’s socio-economic development. At the same time it helps us nurture and preserve our cultural and natural assets. We are fortunate that such a unique policy has allowed us to conduct tourism without being overrun,” Rinzin says.

Bhutan is divided into Western, Central, and Eastern regions, with Western Bhutan being the most developed and accessible to tourists. The other two regions are served by one airport each, but can also be reached by a grueling, twisting ride on the country’s only highway.

“High Value Low Impact” tourism seeks to ensure a meaningful experience for the guest, while educating them about Bhutanese culture and values. Group tours are mostly small affairs of 5-10 people led by certified local guides who also double as the trip concierge. Itineraries and hotels are highly customized. Guests may choose to spend one night at a rustic local farmhouse, and the next at an exclusive resort (with upgrade costs) like the Amankora Punakha or the new Six Senses Bhutan, which has five individual resorts opening from October through March 2019. Activities range from visiting the massive dzong temple-fortresses that dot the country, to birdwatching in the many pine forests, or even tackling the Snowman Trail—one of the Himalayas’ toughest treks, a grueling three-week hike through 11 mountain passes at more than 4,000 meters in elevation.

“The minimum spending rate sounds intimidating if you’ve never been to Bhutan. But travelers always come back from their trips saying the experience was well worth the money spent,” says Joni Herison of Druk Asia. “The expense isn’t too different compared to what you’d spend on a Europe holiday. And you’re getting a highly trained cultural guide, your own private vehicle with a driver, and good hotels that would, at minimum, be rated a ‘conservative’ three stars.”

“The rate also acts as a filter of sorts,” Herison adds. “Bhutan is not a destination for weekenders or backpackers, and only the ones who are really serious about seeing this place will make it here.” No doubt this exclusivity leaves many travelers doubting they will ever setting foot on Bhutanese soil. A good number of them, though, get the point on sustainable tourism—especially when comparisons to Kathmandu’s Freak Street or Bangkok’s Khao San Road (both highly commercialized backpacker hangouts) are brought up. “You can go to to Nepal cheaply and hang out in such neighborhoods, but are you really experiencing the country that you are visiting?" says local guide Tshering Wangmo.

Each day rate incorporates a sustainable development fee that funds infrastructure, education, and health care projects for the Bhutanese. So instead of going into private pockets, the money directly benefits the local population. This helps the kingdom afford free medical care for the locals—and tourists, if they need it.

Guided tours are covered by the daily fee, as are meals, land transport, and accommodations; travelers can opt to spend extra on four- and five-star lodging and personal expenses like alcohol and shopping.

“Bhutan does not believe in GDP— we’ll gladly accept tourism as a factor, but not as our sole means of income,” says Chunjur Dozi, a veteran guide who has worked in the industry for seven years. (Bhutan makes most of its income by selling hydroelectricity to India.) “I have visited many other countries and have seen for myself the negative effects of overtourism. We need sustainable tourism to keep our resources from being stretched, and our people from being corrupted.“ Last year, tourist visits here totaled just under 240,000 a number double that of five years ago, yet thankfully still a trickle compared to hotspots like Phuket or Dubvronik, which see more than 12 million combined visitors annually.

The increased presence of foreigners, though, is just one of many signs that this idyllic mountain kingdom is gradually (if somewhat reluctantly) welcoming the outside world. In the capital Thimphu, espresso cafes and Thai, Korean, and Chinese restaurants have begun to appear alongside eateries serving home-cooked emma dashi (stir-fried chili with cheese) and red rice. And thanks to the internet, western-style fashions are becoming prevalent among the youth. You’ll see them on the streets after school hours, their traditional male gho and female kira attire swapped for jeans and T-shirts. Yet days here still march at the leisurely pace of a spinning prayer wheel. Hollywood movies are unknown in the local theaters, and the country’s only traffic light remains inactive in the downtown area—because motorists prefer to follow the traffic police. Bhutan is the kind of idyllic place that everyone wants to see once. But not everyone will make it here, and that’s just fine with the Bhutanese.