In a remote corner of the world, lies the ancient landlocked Kingdom of Bhutan. Surrounded by the mighty Himalayas and bordering India and China, this Buddhist country is often referred to as the Last Shangri-La or the Land of the Thunder Dragon. In this obscure kingdom, the erstwhile capital city of Punakha continues to fiercely practice an age-old tradition of worshipping the most intriguing of objects: the phallus.
They are everywhere. Ornate penises flanking doorways, hanging off rooftops, painted on the sides of homes, as signage and on window displays. From bright yellows to pastel pinks, sometimes hairy and sometimes enveloped by a dragon spitting fire, some with piercing eyes and some even ejaculating. How does this rather shocking display of male genitalia fit in with this seemingly traditional countryThis penis fascination has a strong historic and spiritual significance in Bhutan. The story dates back to the 15th-century arrival of an eccentric and maverick Tibetan saint, or Lama, called Drukpa Kunley. He is believed to have shot an arrow from the then-Tibet to mark a new spot to spread his teachings. The arrow landed close to the site of present day Chimi Lakhang in Punakha (which is where his temple stands today) and led him to Bhutan. While searching for the arrow, he chanced upon a young girl who believed in his cause, and, pleased with her loyalty, he spent the night with her and ‘blessed her’ with his offspring. Today, the fertility temple houses an ancient bow and arrow and a 10-inch phallic totem made of ivory and wood.
After this introduction to Bhutan, his travels across the kingdom revealed to him the strict ways of the clergy and their unwavering adherence to orthodox societal norms. With a pledge to rid the people of their conventional ways, he set out to spread the true teachings of Buddha. His philandering ways and the sexual overtones in his often outlandish actions earned him the nickname The Divine Madman. With his bawdy poetry, titillating humour and wine-induced sermons, he deliberately shocked people into questioning the establishment and overthrowing traditions.
